Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Poa Kabisa

Hot Sun Foundation- whoa mama. My supervisor quit and I was given the honor of filling her position. This means I now work anywhere from 12 to 15 hours 6 days a week and I loooove every minute of it. Sarcasm. I really do enjoy the work, but it's difficult playing catch up for a competition that is now just 3 days away. When I officially started last week we had no venues, a fucked up budget, no judges, 17 groups when there were only supposed to be 6 and trainers who were demanding more than their share of money. After sorting everything out I get to work and know what needs to be done, but HSF is also shooting a film so the 6 people I used to oversee are now on set and I'm left with one girl, Zitah, to help me. She is a huge help, fun and very kind to work with. She asked me last night if she should quit because she doesn't think she is qualified to work here. The truth is none of us at this organization are really qualified, I'm certainly not, but we learn as we go along. But I assured her that she has been a strong leader and great helper to me and without her I would be lost, after saying that she was back to her usual happy self. Our first performance is this Saturday and we have another one on Sunday. I'm anxious to watch the groups perform. I've been to rehearsals and there is room for improvement, but watching the kids get up there and do their raps or choral verses is so great.

Nyumbani (home): All quiet on the western front. Things at home are great. I went to my mama's motherland, Meru, a few weeks back and met her mother and father. Her mama is this old as hell, full of gusto woman with no front teeth and every 5 minutes my mama asks, "where did your teeth go mama?" Her dad just sits there while his hunched over wife races around gathering sticks, fetching water, cooking and waiting on him. It's frustrating to watch, but that's how it is in the country and with people of that generation. Think about your grandparents- chances are your grandma does more at home than your grandpa. In Meru we attended a Harambe, which means come together, and is a fundraiser. We raised over 1 million Kenyan Shillings, which is over $12,000 for the school my mama used to attend. It was fun and the MC called to me asking if I could make a foreign investment- I happily obliged. Then another weekend I went to a funeral, which was very eye opening. The niece of the man who had died did not believe he was dead and demanded to open the casket. She was pushed away and started to hysterically cry and then she started convulsing on the ground. A few other women dropped to the ground with sadness at the funeral. People just go crazy and cry for 1 or 2 days and then they move on. The past is the past and you can not dwell on the deceased.

Queer Life: Me and Jake had been following a blog called Rants and Raves of a Gay Kenyan before we came. We contacted the blogger, named Peter and met up with him. After getting a drink with him on a Thursday he then took us out on a Friday treating us to dinner, drinks and a night of clubbing. We had so much fun and have many stories. My best one is a married man tried taking me to a hotel. For two hours he kept me captivated with flattering words and tempting invitations, but the ring on his finger was a bit distracting. He wanted to go to the country for the weekend and stay at a hotel, but I declined much to his dismay. People are soooo forward here and the things he was saying made me a bit dizzy and I could not stop laughing (After reading that it sounds like he ropphied me, don't worry that didn't happen). Jake and I are supposed to go out with Peter again, so hopefully we'll have another exciting outing and I will bring back more stories.

Until then nimejitoya (peace out)!

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Kila Kitu (Everything)

Kwa hivyo (so) things have changed for the better with my home-stay. I’m much more comfortable at home and even Adrian and I have formed a somewhat close bond. By that I mean, when he throws a banana at me, I throw it back and it turns into a game and instead of a fight. I had a long talk with my Mama last week and ever since then things feel and are good. I’m much happier in that regard.
School is still hivi hivi (so-so), but we’ve been getting a lot of time off to “work” on the three papers I have due at the end of the program. We have three, annoying 15 page papers and we’re not allowed to check out books from the library at the University of Nairobi, not to mention internet is scarce most of the time, which makes it a challenge to get work accomplished. Anyway we’ve been getting Fridays off to do work on our papers, but obviously we use that time to hang out or go on trips.
This past weekend my friend, Melinda, and I went to Mombasa- the city everyone and their mom told me I had to go visit. Aside from the beaches, there is nothing that great about Mombasa. It is just like Nairobi, but slower-paced, Muslim influenced and much more humid. The beaches make the long, crazy journey (9 hrs there and 8 hrs back) worth it though. They’re not exactly drop-dead gorgeous, but peaceful and relaxing except for the constant bother of people trying to sell us stuff. We met some really nice students from Kenyatta University who were taking the weekend to celebrate the end of their rough final examinations (very competitive and decide your future type exams). They explained to us how pretty much everyone in the water did not know how to swim, which is why there were so many floatation devices. The Indian Ocean might as well be a bath and is by no means refreshing after sweltering in the humidity and scorching sun. I thought I was being good and careful with sunscreen, but I ended up getting some bad burns on my stomach and back. I showed them to my advisor, Abdul-Aziz and he asked me, “So if I go to America will I get frostbite from the cold if I don’t use lotion like you use for sun?” I have no clue where he got such a fantastic idea, but we all laughed and told him he had nothing to worry about.
Abdul-Aziz is hilarious to talk and discuss Kenyan culture with. He is a perfect example of a Kenyan who wants to grasp how things work in America, with no actual concentration on what we’re saying and will still do as he does here. For instance he asked me and some friends about how you would approach someone you like in America, we explained, but he still aggressively comes on to many female students despite having a wife, three kids and a desire for two more someday. Some of the girls complain about him, but that’s how things are here, plus he’s just great and has the most wonderful and infectious laugh I’ve ever heard.
The other day at my internship, I was asked if I would emcee the final event for the project I wrote about earlier. I asked if I had to and they told me my options were to emcee or videotape, and not being one to stay behind a camera I of course jumped on the opportunity. I’m slightly nervous since all of Kibera will be there to watch, but it will also be amazing, plus I have plenty of time to rehearse. I’m really loving working with this organization. Right now it’s less work and more fun. I’m getting to know my co-workers and my way around Kibera, which is a winding maze of clustered housing and endless amounts of trash, where it is very easy to get lost. Those who live in the slum are some of the nicest people I’ve ever met. It is the only place in Nairobi where little kids run up to you and grab your hand wanting to shake it, or they do this endearing little song and dance where they repeatedly ask you,
“How are you? How are you? How are you?” and when I say, “Nzuri sana, na wewe (very good and you)” they just run away, not expecting my Kiswahili response.
Kibera has an infamous reputation and is glorified by our teachers as an unsafe place that the government chooses to ignore to the point they hope it disappears. But the slum, which is more like its own city with a population close to 1 million, is alive and growing. It is my favorite matatu stop to arrive at in Nairobi. The second I get off the matatu there is a competitive cacophony of songs blaring from different vendors selling shoes, meat, live chickens, pirated DVDs and a plethora of other things for insanely cheap prices. The DVDs work well too! But that’s the “wealthy” part of Kibera, the exterior façade luring you into the actual forgotten city, which is distracting and magnifying all at once. From the little boy peeing into the slimy river off his doorstep to the aspiring artists depicting life in the slum and rivaling any contemporary artist hanging in galleries, everywhere you look there is something to see. I resent my teachers who tried to scare us from going there, which did not work because about 15 students volunteer at an elementary school in Kibera, plus two other students and I are doing our internships there. Obama actually came and spoke in Kibera when he was last here about a year or so ago.
One very interesting thing about Kibera is that there are approximately 700 NGOs, CBOs (community based organizations) and non-profits working in Kibera alone. The effects of these organizations are not always visible or tangible, which makes many researchers, analysts and myself question their impact. I do not know the extent to which my organization, HotSun Foundation, makes a difference, but it is at least getting community members involved in something positive. Over 400 people came to try out for our movie, many of whom will be used as extras. Fliers for our story-telling competition have only been up for about a week now and already 4 teams are signed up and daily people stop by inquiring about it. Sadly we have to turn away many because there is an age requirement, we’ve had men close to 50-years-old asking to do it, clearly not having read the requirements that you must be 15-23. It’s fun and I really love my co-workers. They’ve loved me since day one, no questions asked.
Every now and then I get homesick and really miss people back home, but I’m so happy here and growing so much. Sick and corny as that is, it’s so true!
Love and miss you all….

My amazing house help Mercy

Camels are all over the beach, this one just walked right up to me while I was getting burned, no sun tanning, just burning

Kenyatta Beach, way too touristy, but wait I'm one of those!

Nyali Beach- Mombasa